Sub-250 g · 4S · FPV
Drones that fly better than off-the-shelf builds.
I’m an engineer, and drones are my hobby. I mainly build on three AvionRC frames, the Ikon 2.8, Nexa 2.8 and Nexa 3.5. I assemble each one from scratch, configure it, tune the PIDs and fly it myself before sending it to you. I quote GPS, buzzer and ELRS receiver installation and water-repellent coating separately.
- 147 g
- lightest build with O4 ProIkon 2.8
- 191 km/h
- speed recordNexa 2.8
- 18 min
- on Li-ionNexa 3.5
Models
The drones I build
My current builds use the Ikon 2.8, Nexa 2.8 and Nexa 3.5 frames from AvionRC. Each one flies differently and comes with several motor options, so your choice changes how the drone handles.
Step by step
Which one is right for you?
Answer a few questions about how and where you fly. You’ll get a ranked list of builds, a recommended motor variant and battery, and a message you can send me.
How it works
From enquiry to first flight
I place parts orders in batches every 2-3 weeks so customers can share shipping and customs costs. Shipping from China takes up to 3 weeks.
- We work out what you need. Tell me how and where you fly, how much noise is acceptable and whether you want GPS and a buzzer. This step determines your model, motor variant and battery. The configurator can guide you through it. Send me its prepared message and I’ll have the details straight away.
- I put together your parts list. I gather the parts for your build. Ordering in batches every 2-3 weeks lets several customers share shipping and customs costs.
- You approve the parts list. I wait for your approval before ordering. You’ll see exactly what goes into the build. Ask for any changes or tell me if you already have a part so I can leave it out of the order.
- I buy the parts. Shipping from China takes up to 3 weeks. Get in touch early if you’d like to make the next batch.
- I receive the parts and pay customs charges. I handle the overseas shipments and customs bills myself unless we agree otherwise.
- I assemble the drone. I assemble the frame, solder the joints, install the stack and route the wiring. I make my own TPU prints and optimise them for weight. Every gram counts on a sub-250 g build.
- I configure the software. I test the hardware to make sure it works. I flash the firmware, set the flight modes and failsafe, bind the receiver and check that everything responds as it should before the drone leaves the ground.
- I tune the PIDs. I tune the drone for the props it will actually fly with so the O4 footage comes out clean and free of jello. I set the rates to 1000 / 1000 / 900 and suggest some throttle expo as a starting point. I fly with a linear throttle curve myself.
- I take it apart, apply the coating and reassemble it. This step applies if you order the water-repellent coating. I use a Flywoo spray that dries in minutes. Lacquer takes several coats applied hours apart. The spray wears off over time like car wax and needs to be renewed. The coating is a separate service and offers a bit of protection if you land in wet grass. It doesn’t make the drone waterproof.
- I ship your drone. I test-fly every drone before it goes to its owner. Run through the first-flight checks when it arrives. I’ll help remotely with binding and your first flights.
What you get from me
- A start-up guarantee
- Help with binding and an explanation of how everything works
- Remote support after delivery if anything feels off
- My own TPU prints, optimised for weight
Optional services
- GPS installation for longer flights, failsafe and locating the drone after a crash
- Buzzer installation for finding your drone in bushes or tall grass
- Water-repellent coating applied as a spray
- ELRS receiver installation and binding to your radio
- Retuning or PID tuning on a drone someone else built
- Building with your parts if you already have components
I quote these services separately from the standard build. Tell me what you need, even if it’s outside this list. I sell the drone itself. I’m happy to help you choose radios, goggles, ND filters, memory cards or other accessories.
First-flight checks
Go through these in order when the drone arrives. The ground checks take a moment and the flight itself takes about 40 seconds. I can help remotely if anything feels off.
On the ground first
- Tighten the screws without overtightening. Threads in the frame are easy to strip.
- Check the wiring for loose or chafed wires.
- Shake the drone without the battery to check that everything is secure.
- Connect the battery and give the drone a firm shake. I check each build before shipping. If the drone loses power, a cold solder joint is easier to catch on the ground than in the air.
Then in the air
- Start with a basic hover.
- Land after a 30-second hover and check the motor temperatures. They should be cool.
- Use the right stick and check whether the drone comes to a stop on its own.
- Do a power loop, staying upside down briefly with no throttle.
- Do a sharp, tight split S.
Questions
Got questions?
Find answers about components, weight, noise, regulations, durability, Li-ion packs and the O4 gyro.
Contact
Let’s talk about your build
Tell me how and where you want to fly. I’m also happy to answer questions if you’re just getting into FPV.
Photos
See what I’ve built
These are real drones I assembled and shipped, with different TPU prints, on the workbench and out in the field. I flew each one before it went to its owner.