FAQ

I use AvionRC frames for these micro builds. They’re unusually light for their class, well balanced and fly well from the first pack. I’ve yet to find another frame that flies as well at this weight.

• AIO - up to 8 g. I choose the model for each build based on its needs and the current price, usually JHEMCU.
• Receiver - if you fly ELRS 2.4 GHz, I include receiver selection and installation in your quote. A compatible DJI controller works without a separate receiver.
• Motors - DeepSpace Aether, RCinPower, or T-Motor, depending on the variant.
• Camera and VTX - DJI O4 Pro or O4 Lite / Wide. You can also order the drone without a video system and install your own.
• Props - HQ or Gemfan.
• TPU prints - my own prints, optimised for weight.

Yes. Choose your own VTX in the configurator. The drone will arrive without a camera or video transmitter, ready for you to fit your own system.

Yes. If you already have a frame, motors or a radio, tell me what you have and we’ll order only the parts you’re missing.

I place parts orders in batches every 2-3 weeks. Shipping from China takes up to 3 weeks, plus time for assembly and tuning.

I source parts for each order. The cost depends on the dollar exchange rate on the day I buy them, customs charges and whether a part is available or needs a pricier replacement. The same build can cost a different amount a few weeks later.

I quote your specific setup before ordering anything. Use the configurator or tell me what you’re interested in and I’ll get back to you with a quote.

I tune each drone for its specific props so the O4 footage comes out clean.

O4 Pro units made in 2026 use an I469D gyro. It can cause RockSteady stabilisation artefacts on some frames, even when the build has no mechanical vibration issues.

I order O4 Pro units from Flywoo, where their technicians fit an MP66 gyro. That version works properly on the vast majority of frames. Flywoo handles the replacement. MP66 stock is limited because the chip is out of production.

The gyro replacement addresses this specific issue. Damaged props, worn bearings, a rubbing frame or a poorly routed camera cable can still cause vibrations.

It depends on the variant and equipment. With a full O4 Pro and no battery, the Ikon 2.8 weighs about 147-165 g, the Nexa 2.8 about 150-168 g and the Nexa 3.5 about 175-184 g. The range runs from the lightest to the heaviest build. A buzzer adds 4 g and GPS adds 7 g. The heaviest Ikon with GPS is about 172 g. With the right battery, you can stay under the limit. Weights are approximate to +/- 5 g.

Yes, though I usually recommend choosing one. The buzzer adds 4 g and GPS adds 7 g, for 11 g in total. Extra weight means slower climbs, less punch and shorter flights.

Those few grams can decide whether a larger pack fits. I recommend 850 mAh only with 1505 motors and a buzzer, without GPS. With GPS, you’re back to 720 mAh, so flight time drops both from the extra weight and the smaller pack.

Choose based on how you fly.

• Buzzer for freestyle and learning. If your drone comes down somewhere nearby, you can find it by sound.
• GPS for cinematic flying and exploration. It helps with longer routes, failsafe and recovering the drone after a crash.

Both extras can push a Nexa 3.5 with the more powerful motors over 250 g. The Park flyer is particularly sensitive to extra weight.

This is the question I get most often. The Nexa 3.5 has the lowest pitch of the three, but they’re all about as loud. You can hear them from around 150 m away. These are smaller than 5-inch quads, but people in the park will notice a 4S build. A 3-inch toothpick on 1S is much quieter.

Lighter drones with higher-KV motors and lighter props are louder than ones with heavier props and lower-KV motors. Pitch and tone affect how intrusive the drone sounds as much as loudness does.

For comparison, you can hear a DJI Avata 2 from 300 m. These distances are for normal flying. Sound carries noticeably further during punch-outs or sustained hard flying.

Keep the drone out of the rain. It isn’t waterproof. The optional water-repellent coating is a backup in case the drone lands in wet grass. Ask for it when you order if you want that extra protection.

You can start from scratch. Be prepared to fly it yourself. The drone responds directly to your stick inputs, without the automatic hover and return of an off-the-shelf camera drone.

A simulator is the cheapest way to practise. Use whichever one you like before the drone arrives. You’ll build stick skills without paying for crashes. Real flying feels different and the first few flights will take some adjustment, but the reflexes carry over.

The B (Park flyer) or C (Ultralight) is best for learning. They’re more forgiving than A. Once the drone arrives, run the 40-second first-flight check. I’ll help with binding and provide remote support.

Yes. Any simulator will do. These builds feel different in real life, so there’s little point in looking for an exact match.

The simulator lets you get comfortable with the controls and practise stick inputs before risking real hardware. Expect to spend a few flights adjusting to the feel of the real drone.

Yes. The Nexa 3.5 is best at 18 min, followed by the Ikon at 15 min and the Nexa 2.8 at 15 min. A Li-ion pack takes away a lot of punch. I recommend avoiding it altogether on the 2.8-B (Park flyer).

DJI drones are geared towards photo and video. I find them dull to fly unless I’m filming. These builds offer a very different level of speed and agility.

These ratings come from my own flights.

• Nexa 2.8 - 8/10. The toughest of the three. An arm bent after 400 flights without breaking. The camera has better protection than on the Ikon.
• Ikon 2.8 - 7/10. The arms hold up well to park flying.
• Nexa 3.5 - 5/10. The arms are longer but just as thick as those on the smaller frames, so they break more often. An arm broke after 50 flights and 2 crashes.

I arranged two changes with the manufacturer. I include a spare arm so you can get back in the air without waiting for shipping from China. They also cut the arms on the 2.8 builds slightly longer so the 3-inch props fit better.

I’d keep a sub-250 g build of this size to parks and flying around the house. Bando flying and gaps in roofs are too rough for these frames.

These sub-250 g builds are too light for bando flying. I build them on 4S to balance weight and performance. Heavier 6S quads, especially 5-inch ones, have considerably more power.

Put your operator number on the drone. A sticker takes a few minutes, and fines can be substantial. Drones rarely get weighed in Poland in practice, but they can be weighed in Croatia or Switzerland. If you’re flying abroad and want to stay under 250 g, give yourself a few grams of margin.

Over 250 g, you may face stricter rules, including more paperwork, training or an exam, and greater distances from people and buildings. Staying under the limit is part of the reason for a sub-250 g build. Rules vary by country, so check the local requirements before you travel.